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Float & Filter

The whole routine

Hot Tub Care and Maintenance

What to do weekly, monthly and quarterly, what it costs, and when to stop treating old water and just change it.

Cleaning equipment laid out ready for a maintenance session

Everything in this section

7 pages in Maintenance

Orientation

How this category works

Hot tub maintenance is not difficult, but it is unforgiving of being done inconsistently. Fifteen minutes a week keeps a tub in a state where nothing ever goes badly wrong. Three weeks of nothing followed by a panicked afternoon of chemicals produces water that is technically within range and still unpleasant to sit in. The routine is the product here, not any individual bottle.

This section is the spine of the site. Every guide elsewhere ends by pointing back here, because the specific answers only make sense inside the cadence they belong to. If you read one page on this site, make it the maintenance schedule, which lays the whole thing out as a table you can print and stick inside the cabinet door. It is deliberately not behind an email form.

The actual cadence

Weekly is a test and a top-up. Read sanitizer, pH and alkalinity, correct anything out of range, add shock after heavy use, and rinse the filter. Fifteen minutes, and it is the single habit that separates owners who enjoy their tub from owners who are always fighting it.

Monthly is the filter soak and a wipe of the waterline. A chemical soak removes the oils a rinse cannot, and the waterline scum ring is the visible edge of the organic load that will eventually turn into foam.

Quarterly is the water change, with a plumbing purge before you drain and a full clean of the empty shell while you have access to it. This is also when a cover conditioner goes on, because it is the one moment you are already outside with the cover off.

Why the water has a service life

Nothing you add to a hot tub ever leaves except by draining. Stabilized chlorine adds cyanuric acid that accumulates and progressively blunts your sanitizer. Balancers add dissolved solids. Body oils and lotions build up faster than shock removes them. Every one of those makes the water harder to keep right, and none of them is visible.

That is why the answer to how often should I change the water is a calculation rather than a number. It depends on your tub volume and how many people use it how often, and there is a standard rule-of-thumb formula for it that we work through on the water change page, along with the conditions that shorten the interval.

What it costs to run

Running cost splits into three parts and only one of them is chemicals. Electricity for heating is the largest by a distance, and it is dominated by heat loss, which is dominated by the cover. Chemicals are a modest and fairly predictable monthly figure. Consumables like filter cartridges are annual. Our running costs page shows the arithmetic with the variables spelled out so you can put your own numbers in rather than trusting ours.

The practical takeaway is that the biggest saving available to most owners is not switching chemical brands, it is fixing a cover that has stopped sealing. That is a repair or a replacement, not a purchase decision about sanitizer.

If you are new to this

Start with the schedule, then read what chemicals you actually need before you buy anything beyond a start-up kit, then bookmark the first chemicals after a refill for the day you drain it. Those three pages, in that order, cover the first year of owning a hot tub without you needing anything else.